Pont Neuf and Henri IV

Since I first read about him in French 202, Henri IV of France has captured my imagination, and I was finally able to visit parts of Paris that are a part of his legacy.

Like many interesting monarchs he wasn't the most savory of characters, and his reign could be seen as pragmatic and self serving or open minded and ahead of his time. I tend to fall between the two extremes. He made his royal debut as Henri of Navarre when he married Margot, sister of the king Henri III. Poor Margot wasn't too thrilled with the match; Henri of Navarre was a smelly Prostetant, while Margot was a faithful, and hygienic, Catholic. Their marriage was eventually annulled, but they enjoyed a sort of bizarre friendship for the remainder of their lives (she had a sweet place to live in Paris too, in what is now the Marais). When Henri III failed to produce an heir, Henri of Navarre claimed the throne. Needless to say the Pope wasn't crazy about the idea of Huguenot king in France, and neither was the Catholic League in Paris. After a few years of bloodshed and a horrific siege on Paris, Henri of Navarre infamously decided that "Paris was worth a Mass" and converted to Catholicism. Neither the Pope nor any other Catholic European power (like Spain) could argue too much, and Henri was duly crowned and welcomed to Paris by a population tired of war and starvation and ready for a new start.

In spite of numerous mistresses and copious gambling debts, Henri was able to do some good things for France, most notably the Edict of Nante, granting numerous civil and political rights to Protestants and ensuring civil harmony for the next several decades. He also had big ideas for Paris, and although some of his projects were not completed during his life, he left his mark on the city.

The Place de Vosges was never completed during his life, but it was his idea and so he gets the credit. It's a charming square surrounded by homes with uniform, symmetrical, brick facades. The square is full of trees, a welcome sight in a city like Paris, and now holds a small playground. It was designed for parades and other events, but became a popular place for dueling etc. Richelieu lived there at one point, and a couple of centuries later Victor Hugo took up his residence there as well.



Pont Neuf was started by another king, but was completed under Henri IV's supervision. It's still there today as Paris' oldest bridge, I think. A wide, stone bridge was kind of a big deal in a big at that time, when bridges were often overcrowded with shops, pedestrians, and even houses, and had a tendency to collapse.

Henri IV ruled France until his death in 1610. He did not go peacefully. One day as he made his way through the crowd Rue de la Ferronerie, a fanatic Catholic leaped into his phaeton and stabbed him three times. The king died almost immediately, and the nation went into mourning. Today the rue is still there, and there is a plaque marking the spot where the dreadful deed occurred; but Parisians have moved on. As I stood there remembering one of my favorite monarchs, diners smoked and drank at the Banana Café and teenagers ran around texting like crazy. Sometimes I wonder about Parisians.